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Morocco may feel like a small country, but it’s packed with tourist destinations—so you’ll have to make some choices.

During my first trip, I started exploring the north of the country. Of course, I ended up regretting not making a detour to the desert!

When planning my second visit, I naturally set aside a few days to discover those towering dunes.

Like every traveler, I was faced with the classic question: Merzouga or M’Hamid? Two very different vibes—with varying levels of comfort and budgets as well.

Whichever you choose, a trip to the Sahara desert is highly recommended during your stay. Keep reading to find out which one might be right for you!

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Plan Your Stay to the Desert in Just a Few Seconds!

In a rush to plan your trip? This mini-guide has all the essentials you need!

WHERE TO SLEEP?

  • At Brahim’s: +212678300287 (an authentic option in M’Hamid)
  • Luxury Camp Merzouga (for a glamorous stay in Merzouga)

TOURS FROM MARRAKECH:

TOURS FROM FÈS:

HOW TO GET TO THE DESERT? 

TABLE OF CONTENTS

A few words about the Sahara Desert

The Sahara Desert spans over 8 million square kilometers. No wonder, its name means “the great desert” in Berber.

Despite minimal rainfall, the world’s largest hot desert hosts a unique ecosystem adapted to arid zones.

Although the density of flora and fauna is low, it is perfectly suited to this extreme environment.

I must admit I was surprised to see so many shrubs and plants before reaching the high dunes.

It’s impossible to talk about the Moroccan Sahara without mentioning the ancient caravan routes. As early as the medieval period, trade roads connected Morocco to the kingdoms of sub-Saharan Africa.

Arabs and Berbers left their mark with ways of life perfectly adapted to the harshness of the region. Migration, tribal conflicts, and conquests are also an essential part of its history.

Which countries does the Sahara Desert cover?

The Sahara crosses 10 countries: Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Mauritania, Mali, Niger, Chad, Sudan, Egypt, and Libya.

Most tourists are mainly familiar with the parts located in Morocco, Tunisia, and Egypt, as these are the most popular tourist destinations.

Moreover, the Sahara is a true asset for Moroccan tourism, which actively promotes it to attract visitors seeking adventure, spectacular landscapes, and unique cultural experiences.

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Why visit the Sahara?

Believe me, a trip to the desert is an unforgettable experience during your stay in Morocco. Yes, Marrakech, Essaouira, Chefchaouen… they’re all worth a visit.

But the charm of cities and villages doesn’t exclude discovering Morocco’s natural beauty.

Beyond breathtaking landscapes, you’ll have the chance to experience a different way of life and immerse yourself in an authentic culture by sharing precious moments with the locals. And let’s not forget the magical nights spent under a vast, starry sky…

In short, the Moroccan desert is an absolute must-see!

MERZOUGA OR M’HAMID?

The Merzouga desert lets you discover the impressive Erg Chebbi, a spectacular dune field reaching up to 150 meters high. Here, the sand is fine, the landscapes breathtaking, and the camps often comfortable, sometimes even luxurious.

M’Hamid offers a wilder, more authentic experience with Erg Chigaga, one of Morocco’s largest ergs. The dunes are lower but more vast and remote. The atmosphere is calmer, closer to nomadic life, with camps that are often simple and environmentally friendly.

How to get to the desert?

Although many tourists also visit Arafay, it is truly Merzouga and M’Hamid that offer the most spectacular and authentic dune landscapes in the Moroccan Sahara.

How to get to Merzouga?

The option favored by many couples, groups of friends, or families is to reach the desert by car during a road trip through the country.

If you don’t have your own vehicle, you can rent one online through sites like Discover Cars.

From Marrakech, expect about a 9-hour drive to reach Merzouga, crossing beautiful and varied landscapes, from the Atlas Mountains to the arid valleys of the south.

If you’re traveling alone or prefer not to rent a car, you can of course, take a bus.

How to get to M'Hamid?

Getting to M’Hamid from Marrakech is also a long journey. Once you arrive in the village, finding your way to the camp you’ve likely booked can be tricky.

I highly recommend getting detailed directions from your host beforehand or simply asking them to pick you up from the village center to accompany you.

Taking the bus is also an option. The CTM company offers a trip of about 11 hours connecting Marrakech to M’Hamid. You can also do like I did and reach M’Hamid from Ouarzazate.

In my case, my host kindly offered to pick me up at the bus stop and drive me to the camp, even though it was technically accessible on foot. Arriving at night, I obviously accepted—and honestly, I would have done the same during the day!

Don’t hesitate to ask your host for this service if it’s not offered right away; this little help will greatly ease your arrival.

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Where to sleep in the desert?

Here you have two options:

  • Stay in accommodation in the arrival village and book a desert excursion that includes a night amid the dunes.
  • Or choose to stay directly in the dunes for several days for a complete change of scenery.

Really, it all depends on what you want!

Know that there is a wide variety of accommodations, ranging from simple nomad camps to luxurious lodges, with prices varying accordingly.

👉 Merzouga is known for offering more comfortable, sometimes even glamorous experiences, with high-end camps equipped with all amenities.

👉 M’Hamid, on the other hand, offers more rustic and authentic stays for those who want to experience the desert in its most immersive form.

Whatever you choose, sleeping in the desert is an unforgettable experience.

If you decide on M’Hamid, I highly recommend contacting Brahim. His camp is perfect for an immersive experience at the edge of the desert, and he is a funny and attentive host. Here is his number: +212678300287.

Which tours to explore the Moroccan desert?

Many tours are departing from Marrakech and Fès for tourists who want to visit the desert during a short getaway, without having to worry about logistics.

The vast majority include transfers, accommodation, and meals, and sometimes even a few tourist stops along the way (gorges, kasbahs, palm groves…).

Granted, you’ll have less freedom than if you organize your trip yourself, but these packages are ideal for people in a hurry or those who don’t feel comfortable managing arrangements on-site.

It’s also a reassuring option if you’re traveling alone and want to experience the Sahara as part of a group.

Here’s my selection:

What to pack for the desert?

Of course, it gets hot and the sun is blazing! Bringing enough water, good sun protection, sunglasses, and a hat is essential!

But be careful: the nights can be chilly, especially between December and January. So be sure to pack a warm sweater and a windbreaker to stay comfortable once the sun goes down.

To protect yourself from the sand, especially when it’s windy, do as the locals do and wear a cheich—a long traditional scarf used by desert inhabitants. If you don’t know how to tie it, don’t worry: your guide or host will be happy to show you how to wear it!

My experience in the desert 

I like having the freedom to move whenever I want, I love slow travel, and I’m always looking for authentic stays to spend time with locals without ever spending a fortune. So naturally, I chose M’Hamid instead of Merzouga.

From Ouarzazate, I took a CTM bus heading to the small village where my host was waiting for me. After a few minutes by car, we arrived at the camp in complete darkness.

For me, a city girl, it was hard to see much… After dropping off my backpack in my room, I went out to dinner, and that’s when my host, who offers many excursions, told me that two Germans were leaving the next day to explore Erg Chigaga—the dune I also wanted to discover.

Without hesitation, I decided to join the excursion.

The 4x4 journey

Early in the morning, after breakfast, we hopped into the 4×4. Incredible and surprisingly varied landscapes unfolded before our eyes, bouncing with every jolt of the vehicle. Everything felt magical — until we made a stop that would remain etched in my memory for a long time.

We paused in a spot where the only thing seemingly interesting was the vegetation — until an ostrich came to visit us.

I had not expected to encounter such an impressive animal on a desert trip that morning, and even less that it would come so close. Honestly, I was fascinated!

We had to get back on the road, and new landscapes appeared before us. Clearly, everything was getting more and more arid. The vegetation thinned out, and the dunes grew increasingly majestic.

We settled in a true haven of peace, surrounded by a few trees, where we spent over an hour enjoying our meal. If I hadn’t been so captivated by the beauty around me, I probably would have taken a perfect little nap. Then, it was time to get back in the 4×4.

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Arrival at the Camp

After a few hours on the road, we finally reached the camp. A circle of charming little adobe houses, with a communal space in the center to relax… and enjoy the traditional welcoming mint tea.

Other travelers, who had come with different guides and hosts, were already there, while others, like us, were just discovering the place.

While waiting to set off on camelback and venture further into the desert, everyone chose to explore the surroundings of the camp. Endless sand forming towering dunes, and sunlight casting multiple shades. Then, the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere.

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The Camel Ride

It’s time to wrap my cheich and climb onto our camels for a short ride. A first for me! The experience is fun, but what really sticks with me is the surreal landscape we move through, gently rocked by the slow steps of the animals. The sun is setting, shadows stretch long… and our caravan casts a poetic silhouette on the dunes.

Once we arrive at our destination, the sunset puts on a stunning show over the endless stretches of sand. The silence is equally striking. Our return journey takes place under the growing darkness of the night sky.

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Show time

After dinner, it’s time to gather around in a half-circle facing our hosts and guides. Berber songs and percussion by the fire, before inviting us to dance.

One of those unforgettable moments shared with complete strangers, marking the perfect end to this desert escape. Tomorrow, it will be time to head back.

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IS IT ETHICAL TO TAKE A CAMEL RIDE?

The question of ethics related to camel rides largely depends on how the animals are treated.

Unlike some tourist areas where animals are overexploited, in the Sahara Desert, many herders still consider their dromedaries as valuable work partners and take good care of their well-being.

That said, it is essential to choose a camp or agency that respects the animals: check that the camels are not overloaded, that they have access to water, that they show no visible injuries, and that they get enough rest.

If you have any doubts, don’t hesitate to ask questions or opt for a walk on foot through the dunes, which is just as magical. Ethics above all requires a conscious and informed approach.

What to see in M'Hamid?

M’Hamid is mainly known as the ideal starting point to explore the desert, but it is also a charming small Saharan village.

Exploring the winding streets of the village

A simple walk of a few hours is enough to soak up the local atmosphere: you can observe daily life, admire the mosque, try some traditional restaurants, or even play soccer with the local kids.

If you’re there on a Monday, don’t miss the weekly market — a lively and friendly event not to be missed.

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Visit Ouled Driss ksar

There are many traditional kasbahs and ksars around the village, but some places are not very welcoming to tourists. Always ask your host for advice on which ones to visit or, even better, ask them to organize a small excursion.

Personally, I visited Ksar Ouled Driss, a 17th-century Saharan ksar that has preserved its original adobe architecture.

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As I write these lines, I’m organizing a new trip to the Sahara Desert. Far from everything, in a landscape from another world, you will experience, just like me, a unique adventure and a true moment of connection. I can only encourage you to discover a place unlike any other. If you have any questions, feel free to leave me a comment.

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